Split flap display parts list & sourcing guide
Let's start by figuring out what you'll need to build a module.
Please keep in mind that this section is still active work in progress.
Per-Module Parts, Non-Printed
| Part | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Stepper motor (28BYJ-48 or NEMA17) | 1 | |
| Sensor Board | 1 | Coming Soon in Shop, Samples available |
| Controller Board (either ULN2003A or TMC2209) | 1 | Coming Soon in Shop, Samples available |
| Flap Set | 1 | Coming Soon in Shop, Samples available |
| Magnet (for home position), 4x2mm | 1 | |
| M3x6 Countersunk | 8 | |
| M3x20 Countersunk | 4 | |
| M3x16 Countersunk | 3 | |
| M3x10 Countersunk | 3 | |
| M3x4 Countersunk | 2 | |
| M3 Square Nuts | 3 |
A multi-module display also needs the boards that link the modules: connection boards, the occasional power break, and one injector board per five modules. Those are per-display rather than per-module, and Connector Boards covers them.
I'm still setting up the online store, and as such, some parts are not yet available directly to order. To make it anyway possible for anyone to start building you can get in touch via Discord and request a sample kit.
Ordering directly while the shop is being set up
For a single module or two, the Discord sample kit route above is the fastest way to get going.
For an installation (a dozen modules or more, an event, a gallery piece, a commissioned display) write to hello@flipforward.de instead. Assembled modules, connection boards and injector boards can all be ordered directly, and quotes go out net of VAT.
Four things decide the quote, so include them in the first mail: how many modules and in how many rows, which alphabet (the standard 43 characters or something custom), what you need from me (bare boards, assembled modules, flaps, or all of it), and when you need it, especially if there's an opening or an event attached.
Flaps, cases, power supplies and shipping are quoted separately from the modules, since they vary completely between builds. Custom flaps have the longest lead time of anything in a build. If your alphabet isn't the standard set, start there.
Motor Details
NEMA17
NEMA17 basically only specifies the dimension, not the electrical characteristics. What you're looking for is a NEMA17, 20mm height with lead-only connection: that means it doesn't come with a JST connector socket, but the leads exit the case directly. This is super important, as otherwise the stepper is too large to be able to fit inside the drum. The generally working model number is 17HS08-1004S.
Some example links for models that work
- Amazon (Affiliate Link): https://amzn.to/48DFBKp
- Stepperonline: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/de/nema-17-bipolar-1-8deg-16ncm-22-6oz-in-1a-3-5v-42x42x20mm-4-draehte-17hs08-1004s (Offers scale pricing)
Keep in mind that minor differences in torque do not matter - we're not running the motor at full load anyway.
28BYJ-48
There are plenty of different manufacturers, but they generally all work the same. Please make sure you get the 5V Version, the board is made to work with that.
- Amazon (Affiliate Link): https://amzn.to/4w4xdgP
They are virtually always shipped with the driver board - you won't need that, but don't go crazy trying to find a motor without one.
Metal Case
The design of the flip forward module is anchored around a sheet-metal case - black, aluminium and equipped with all the necessary mounting holes.
You can either order this (well, soon) or print the model on your 3D Printer - both is fine. For larger installations, I recommend going for the metal case.
Printed Parts
Previous versions of the models used heat inserts in conjunction with metal fasteners. This added significant time to building the modules without providing outsized benefits. The current version relies on M3 Screws being directly screwed into the plastic - this is robust enough for both the Drum and joining the Back Case with the Front Case Part. You do not need Heat Inserts at all for building your Display module.
Parts Orientation and Print Settings
All parts have been designed to print without supports. You can use the .3mf below for a quick start and to check parts orientation. The models are quite robust and can be printed at "rough" layer heights - .28mm is usually fine, even for the smaller details, like the inner holes of the drum.
Material wise, PLA and PETG both work fine - just make sure the PETG is properly dried before printing, as the models do not take well too blobs and other artifacts.
Front Case
The main housing component of the display module. You'll be able to order this from the shop as a powder-coated aluminium case, or you can take the model and print it – just make sure you orient it so that the user-facing part is on the build plate (i.e. the opening down). It contains all the necessary mounting holes for assembly.
Back Case
This is the part that connects the Front Case with an eventual back plate, which is used for bigger installations. This is also where the controller PCB is mounted on the finished thing.
Back Case, End Piece
This is the part that connects the Front Case with an eventual back plate, which is used for bigger installations. This is also where the controller PCB is mounted on the finished thing.
This version has the plastic wall extending all the way to the front of the module, closing it visually. This is for the end piece of an installation.
Flap Stop
Arrests the motion of the flaps after they've turned over. Optional, but highly recommended.
Front Guide
Actually, this is a crucial part to ensure the flaps are always turning over at a defined point with some more momentum than gravity alone could supply. Mounted with 2 M3x4mm screws.
Main Drum
The main drum consists of two parts - a flat one, and one that I coined "Kraken Part", because it looks a bit alien. There's two small notches, one on each part, and they need to align - this ensures that the flaps later are actually symmetrical.
The Kraken part slides onto the Shaft of the NEMA-Stepper (or a a 28BYJ-48) and is fixed using a nut and a screw.
This is the part that needs a dialed in printer. Make sure the tiny holes are clean from oozing or other unwanted plastic, as having extra material there will prevent clean movement.
Also, the Kraken Part might look a little excessive but it's symmetric design is actually required to ensure there's no asymmetric warping when printing.
NEMA17 Cable Holder
This part is installed on the side of the NEMA17 Stepper to ensure that the motor cables are neatly pushed down to be super close to the case, and not flying around and interfering with the drum and the flaps.
Sensor and Cable Holder
This part has two purposes - it fixes the dedicated sensor board that carries a hall effect sensor precisely in place, while also containing 4 cutouts for the NEMA17 motor cables. They get pressed in there so that they're secure during operations.
This part also has an alternate version that doesn't require pushing in cables into a groove - and it's preferred for when you're using the BYJ motor.
Using a 28BYJ-48 instead of a NEMA17
You already some some alternative versions of parts depending on which motor type you have above, the essential one you'll need is this here - it's an adapter that enables you to mount the BYJ on mounting holes that are intended for a NEMA. The part includes some cable guiding as well.